I am a plastics engineer who specifically focuses on high performance polymers. Very familiar with PTFE as well as PVDF and PVF (other fluoropolymers). Mostly for aerospace applications. From an engineering/science perspective, all my favorite polymers are fluoropolymers. With that said, I abhor PFAS pollution and am unsure if responsible use of these chemicals is possible. I generally avoid fluoropolymer products in my day-to-day life.
Some thoughts below,
>>"Fluoropolymers fall into a broader category of chemicals called PFAS”<<
I would be careful to explain that fluoropolymers and items composed of fluoropolymers are very low risk. Teflon on its own is not that dangerous at all. I wish PFAS was not the term that ended up being popularized as it includes fluoropolymers as a rule. Some entities use this confusion to bypass environmental/health concerns—they can accurately say that Teflon is harmless and non-bio-accumulating, ignoring the fact that Teflon uses harmful perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs) in its manufacture and that Teflon decomposes into short-chain PFAS when burned. I think you hint as much in your article, but in my opinion, it’s a distinction worth making.
>>”Numerous brands including Klättermusen, Finisterre and Fjällräven have completely eliminated PFAS from their waterproofing technology (or never used them in the first place) — and all create products that perform at the highest level, in harsh conditions.”<<
I’m not an expert on outdoor garments, but I really doubt that anyone has a product which surpasses ePTFE in terms of a breathable, durable, water-resistant membrane. I’m sure their new ePE marketing materials might imply it is as good as ePTFE, but I don’t see how it could be.
The biggest problem with fluoropolymers, PTFE especially, is that it is unmatched by anything else. It’s not even an issue of the alternatives being more expensive—in many cases, there just are no alternatives capable of performing at the same level. While we might be able to say that waterproof jackets are not worth the PFAS, it is harder to say the same about medical implants or pharmaceutical processing equipment.
>>Technical outdoor clothing is the ultimate paradox — synthetic, fossil fuel-derived materials, sold as a necessity for stepping outside. An industry built on the belief that to experience nature, we must consume it.<<
I do not like synthetic textiles; most of my clothes are cotton. I am not big on hiking though—I understand cotton isn’t much good for it. Do you think wool is more ethical than oil-derived synthetics? Is wool a viable material for high performance applications? I would be very curious to hear your thoughts!
FWIW I have a pair of wool / synthetic-blend socks that are excellent: comfortable in all conditions, water resistant and, even after 2-3 days use, they don’t stink - amazing but true! They are fairly dense, thick and lofty but are fine in warm conditions. Years ago, as we prepped for a short family backpacking trip, I exhorted the skeptical crew to wear wool on their feet. We hiked about 3 miles before getting rained out, all of us totally soaked (on July 31 in the middle of a drought year). Wet feet incur blisters - unless you’re wearing wool. Everyone did but my wife, who wore cotton. She got the blisters the rest of us avoided.
Thanks Em, so many parallels with toxic Neoprene production and the surf industry… both the impact on the communities around the plants and the industry response as highlighted in The Big Sea documentary.
Cheers Chris, absolutely agree with the parallels between this and The Big Sea (which is such a vital piece of storytelling 🙏). It’s interesting how brands within the outdoor/surf industries have managed to escape the kind of scrutiny faced by the rest of the fashion/textile sector — the way association with nature seems to obscure the human and environmental cost of material production and manufacturing. And that’s even before you get to the working conditions of garment workers who make the clothes.
Rich could afford these expensive clothes. Though you're right, a poor person would do the same. Both are people and like the majority of people will put their wants before someone's else's needs.
Our modern market model has never priced in the "externalities" like the cost of cleaning up (or better: preventing) the human and environmental toxicities of the manufacturing process. Some get rich, some get sick/die, and we get cheaper prices. Such a bargain!
Great article! Thanks for sharing.
I am a plastics engineer who specifically focuses on high performance polymers. Very familiar with PTFE as well as PVDF and PVF (other fluoropolymers). Mostly for aerospace applications. From an engineering/science perspective, all my favorite polymers are fluoropolymers. With that said, I abhor PFAS pollution and am unsure if responsible use of these chemicals is possible. I generally avoid fluoropolymer products in my day-to-day life.
Some thoughts below,
>>"Fluoropolymers fall into a broader category of chemicals called PFAS”<<
I would be careful to explain that fluoropolymers and items composed of fluoropolymers are very low risk. Teflon on its own is not that dangerous at all. I wish PFAS was not the term that ended up being popularized as it includes fluoropolymers as a rule. Some entities use this confusion to bypass environmental/health concerns—they can accurately say that Teflon is harmless and non-bio-accumulating, ignoring the fact that Teflon uses harmful perfluoroalkyl acids (PFAAs) in its manufacture and that Teflon decomposes into short-chain PFAS when burned. I think you hint as much in your article, but in my opinion, it’s a distinction worth making.
>>”Numerous brands including Klättermusen, Finisterre and Fjällräven have completely eliminated PFAS from their waterproofing technology (or never used them in the first place) — and all create products that perform at the highest level, in harsh conditions.”<<
I’m not an expert on outdoor garments, but I really doubt that anyone has a product which surpasses ePTFE in terms of a breathable, durable, water-resistant membrane. I’m sure their new ePE marketing materials might imply it is as good as ePTFE, but I don’t see how it could be.
The biggest problem with fluoropolymers, PTFE especially, is that it is unmatched by anything else. It’s not even an issue of the alternatives being more expensive—in many cases, there just are no alternatives capable of performing at the same level. While we might be able to say that waterproof jackets are not worth the PFAS, it is harder to say the same about medical implants or pharmaceutical processing equipment.
>>Technical outdoor clothing is the ultimate paradox — synthetic, fossil fuel-derived materials, sold as a necessity for stepping outside. An industry built on the belief that to experience nature, we must consume it.<<
I do not like synthetic textiles; most of my clothes are cotton. I am not big on hiking though—I understand cotton isn’t much good for it. Do you think wool is more ethical than oil-derived synthetics? Is wool a viable material for high performance applications? I would be very curious to hear your thoughts!
FWIW I have a pair of wool / synthetic-blend socks that are excellent: comfortable in all conditions, water resistant and, even after 2-3 days use, they don’t stink - amazing but true! They are fairly dense, thick and lofty but are fine in warm conditions. Years ago, as we prepped for a short family backpacking trip, I exhorted the skeptical crew to wear wool on their feet. We hiked about 3 miles before getting rained out, all of us totally soaked (on July 31 in the middle of a drought year). Wet feet incur blisters - unless you’re wearing wool. Everyone did but my wife, who wore cotton. She got the blisters the rest of us avoided.
Thanks Em, so many parallels with toxic Neoprene production and the surf industry… both the impact on the communities around the plants and the industry response as highlighted in The Big Sea documentary.
Cheers Chris, absolutely agree with the parallels between this and The Big Sea (which is such a vital piece of storytelling 🙏). It’s interesting how brands within the outdoor/surf industries have managed to escape the kind of scrutiny faced by the rest of the fashion/textile sector — the way association with nature seems to obscure the human and environmental cost of material production and manufacturing. And that’s even before you get to the working conditions of garment workers who make the clothes.
Thanks for this important work. I'll be thinking twice about my next waterproof purchase for sure!
So well written and so important, thank you for sharing 💚
Thanks so much for reading, I’m glad it resonated 🌞
Thank you for writing! I had no clue about this. I come from an outdoorsy family and shared this Substack with them.
Thank YOU for reading!! And for sharing!
Really great article, so much to unpack, especially with Gore having such a large presence in the medical field as well
A really great write up Em. Thank you for this. 🙏
Thanks Charlie!
Great writing Em, a really informative piece, thank you
Thank you so much for reading!
So well written Em, this needs to be read over and over again.
Thanks Anya, it means a lot! ✨
I have never actually had a raincoat except one I had as a young child.
Just could never muster the extra cost. I do own an umbrella.
You mentioned 3 manufacturers. Any thoughts on patagonia? Tks
I'm never buying another thing with Gore-tex.
Now I’m wondering if anyone has looked to see if there is any link between PFAS exposure of women and autism of their children.
Are the rich willing to trade a poor person's health and wellness, just to spend a little longer in the rain?
Yes. Absolutely yes. Have you never met a rich person?
Not just rich people, if we're honest.
Rich could afford these expensive clothes. Though you're right, a poor person would do the same. Both are people and like the majority of people will put their wants before someone's else's needs.
Our modern market model has never priced in the "externalities" like the cost of cleaning up (or better: preventing) the human and environmental toxicities of the manufacturing process. Some get rich, some get sick/die, and we get cheaper prices. Such a bargain!